A walk on the wild side!

When we were offered a walking tour of the park I have to admit, I was a bit naive to the reality of the situation. I'm not sure what I expected. But I sure wasn't prepared for what I got.

Only five of us from the group would be walking. We met our guide, Fraser, at the camp and he quickly loaded us up into a safari vehicle. Wait... I assumed we were walking around camp, or at least very near to camp! Now we were going deep into the park for our tour!? I was thrilled and terrified all at the same time. After driving for about 20 minutes along the bumpy trail, Fraser stopped the truck and told us this is where we would be starting our journey. He proceeded to pull a shotgun out from behind the seat and slung it over his shoulder. By this point in our time at Gorongosa I was well-aware that there were plenty of dangerous animals in the park, but I was also well-aware that some of them wouldn't be phased by that gun. After going over some rules, including "No talking, just walking" and "Always stay behind Fraser" we set off into the forest. I realized at that moment that we were completely on our own in this vast place! Luckily we had a very experienced guide to lead the way. (And a shotgun, just in case)

We walked along the edge of a riverbed for over a mile. Only the sound of our footsteps and the calling of numerous birds broke the still of the morning. Experiencing this place in this way was awe-inspiring and serene. And soon I found myself smelling scents I had never imagined, seeing things I had never seen, and hearing sounds that only Africa could conceive. Suddenly Fraser held up his fist in what we recognized as the "stop" command. We halted to a stop and listened. The rumbling of nearby elephants made the chills run through my body. Fraser told us they were close, probably across the dry riverbed. We trekked forward.

We saw numerous birds and animals as we walked. Near the edge of the riverbed a monitor lizard scurried away at the sound of our steps. After stopping for a short break we came to an area of small trees with long bendable branches. Fraser explained that this was a poachers paradise. The flexible limbs were perfect for setting snares that would be camouflaged and very effective. It made the poaching crisis staggeringly palpable at that moment. It made my stomach hurt.

We followed Fraser for a couple of miles, stopping to learn about the local ecology at many places along the way. Soon Fraser mentioned we were heading to an area where Paola and the other lion researchers were camping out. He explained that this was a "hot spot" for lions in the park which is why the team was posted up there. He also mentioned that he had never explored this part of the park by foot before and we needed to stay keenly aware of our surroundings. We set off into the waist-deep grass. My heart pounded with each step.

We soon reached the lion camp and met up with the rest of the group. It was a relief to once again have the safety of a vehicle to rely on, but for a second I wished we could continue to explore the park by foot. Paula reminded us that the lions were always nearby and soon the vehicle became our shield once again!

Our visit to Gorongosa has been truly magical. The raw and untouched beauty of this place is something indescribable. It's sometimes hard to imagine that only a short time ago a brutal war raged throughout this serene landscape. The park is an incredibly forgiving place. And although the physical and emotional wounds are beginning to heal, some of the scars of termoil still remain.
On the fence surrounding our camp the holew from gunfire are still very apparent.

More safari's and sundowners followed over the next few days, and soon our stay in Gorongosa came to an end. It was difficult saying goodbye to the staff who had become our friends, but I know I will return to this incredible place again soon. Now, back to South Africa to explore Kruger National Park....

Elephants and Lions (oh my!)

I'm getting used to sharing a bungalow with a family of bats. (Most of the time they are better roommates than Tia! ;)  They only get upset when I turn the bathroom light on during the night so I've learned to pee in the dark. I barely notice their tiny squeaks and they have been extra careful not to soil the room. If they decide to move their toilet we may have to give them an eviction notice. Until then, we are friends.

The past few days have been filled with safaris! We've seen some pretty extraordinary animals! Elephants are a daily occurrence and yesterday we sat in a forest surrounded by over 100 of them!

                                 (Sorry for the poor photos - the good ones are on my camera!)

We also spent a good half hour hanging out with a pride of lions. The 2 females and 2 males were quietly resting after a big meal (what a relief). As we approached they didn't even stand up. A glance in our direction was the only indication that they even saw us at all! Paola and the lion team have done an excellent job habituating them to the safari vehicles. Sitting with them that close in the wild gave me an overwhelming sense of peace but also fear. The fear does not come from the animal but from the sheer fact that I know these lions may not be around for long. Just this week the lion M02, probably the most well-known male lion in the park, was killed by poachers. He stepped in a steel-jaw trap and died as a result of his injuries. Gin-traps are illegal in Mozambique and have been banned in Europe as well. In the US though, these traps are still widely used. Unfortunately M02's story is not unique. One in three lions in the park have been victims of snares or jaw-traps. It's heartbreaking. I certainly hope one day my children and grandchildren will be able to see these incredible animals in the wild.

On our way back to camp last night we were surprised by the number of elephants we came across. It was after dark when we headed back home and a breeding group of females who were just off the road trumpeted loudly at us. The truck engine and the spotlight we had been using to view nocturnal mammals along our route had to be quickly turned off as to not aggravate them further. There's nothing like the sound of nearby elephants in the dark of night to make the hair on the back of your neck stand up! Luckily they moved on without incident and we were able to start the engine again and continue on our way. I spotted another one closer to camp. This time it was a lone large bull elephant, and once again we shut off the engine and sat in silence in the middle of the road. I could hear the trees crushing beneath his feet as he slowly moved away. It was thrilling!

Now for another night with my roommates.... Gosh I love this place!

The personal side of Gorongosa

Groggily waking up to the sound of bush babies calling to each other from the tree tops can be a bit confusing as a mom. After all, they sound like crying babies screaming from outside our bungalow! (If you've never heard a bush baby call, Google it! It's fascinating!) But it doesn't take long to remember we're in paradise, and soon we're up and ready for the next adventure!

The Gorongosa management has done an amazing job ensuring that the people who live all around the park are greatly benefiting from the tourism and scientific research that the park attracts. By providing clinics, schools, community education and agricultural advancement to the villages that surround the park, it has truly made a great difference in these people's lives!

After a short drive through a fever tree forest we arrive at the Punguay river. A tiny boat greets us on the riverbank and shuttles us across the narrow waterway. There we are met by young boys from the village who introduce themselves to us by pointing at their chests and saying their names. It's clear they speak no English. As we wait for the other groups to be shuttled across the two boys point at Rena's binoculars and motion as if to put them to their eyes. Rena quickly hands them to one of the boys who excitedly gazes through them. They continue to pass the binoculars back and forth to each other giggling after each turn.

Our guide leads us to the outskirts of Vinho where we see a beautiful farm. An agriculture specialist from Gorongosa explains how they are helping these villagers learn more productive and eco friendly farming practices. In turn the farmers produce a higher yield and are even able to sell some of the items creating an income source for the village!

The village school is the next stop. As we walk the mile or so down the road, a crowd of children begins to grow around us. We arrive at the school and are greeted by an additional one hundred or more kids. The four teachers at the school tell us about their lesson plans, school structure, and the typical day of a student.

Our final stop in the village is the medical center. The single employee of the center serves as the administrator, nurse and Doctor to over 4000 people from nearby villages. There is a long line of patients waiting to be seen so we don't stay long. On the way out we get a glimpse of the delivery room where a young woman is preparing to give birth. 

Tia makes plenty of friends on our way back to the boat. She gives them all stickers and teaches them how to peel off the backs put them on their shirts. They quickly extend their hands for more and more!

After a drive down the road we reach the Gorongosa Community Education Center. Here students, teachers and community leaders from all around come to learn about the wildlife and threats facing their park. The staff does an excellent job of making the villagers feel welcome and educating the entire community.

Going to a village restores your hope. You see people taking leadership of their lives. You see what a little bit of help can really mean for them. I must say, I feel very proud that Zoo Boise is such a significant supporter of the Gorongosa restoration project. Not only are we helping to save animals in the wild, we are providing great support to the people who call this area home. What a great day!

What's that noise?

What is that noise? I woke up to an animal making noises INSIDE our bungalow. Tiny chirping sounds were coming from the top of our room, directly above my head. The bug net that surrounded my bed suddenly felt like a giant shield protecting me from the unknown. Exhausted, I glanced at my watch...4:30 am. Still too early to get up and investigate. I dozed back to sleep.

When the alarm went off an hour later I briefly forgot about the sound. After a shower and the daily shake of Tia's foot to wake her up I remembered it again. We turned on all of the lights, expecting to see a family of bush babies, bats, or geckos above. But there was nothing. It wasn't sure this was the result I was looking for. After all, I knew whatever it was, it would probably be back again tonight!

Our first safari (game drive) of the trip began promptly at 6:30 am. Castro, our guide, greeted us with blankets to shield us from the chilly breeze and we climbed aboard the open-air Safari vehicle. I couldn't help but marvel at the fact that the 2 safari vehicles our group occupied were the only tourist vehicles in the entire 1 million acre park! It felt very magical to be exploring a corner of this vast space on our own. Yet, on the other had, I wished that more people could experience this incredible place!

Just outside the gates of Chitengo we quickly started spotting animals. Waterbuck, oribi, impala, baboons and warthogs soon became as common as our Idaho squirrels as we traveled on our way. A sable antelope soon appeared, majestic and unafraid he stood tall next to the road as if to pose for a photo. Throughout the morning drive we spotted over 26 species of mammals and birds. The afternoon drive proved to be even more fruitful as we added 15 additional species to the list including elephants! The four bull elephants seemed curious about our close-encounter but none the less let us watch peacefully as they ate branches from a thorny acacia tree.

By evening we were in for another treat! The staff from the lodge set up an evening "sundowner" for us, complete with tasty appetizers and cocktails. With a 360 degree view of the African plains, we watched the sun set over Mount Gorongosa! It was absolutely breathtaking!

By the way... They were bats ;)

Gorongosa! Finally!

Gorongosa!

I woke up this morning full of excitement! Today we were finally going to see Gorongosa National Park and the country of Mozambique! Our quick flight from Johannesburg to Beira gave us our first views of the Mozambican countryside and bordering ocean. It was beautiful! We were met at the airport by customs officials who proptly measured each of our temperatures to make sure we were not  ill. (An effort to prevent the spread of Ebola from infected visitors)

From Beira we boarded a tiny Cessna plane bound for Gorongosa and Chitengo Camp where we will be staying. Sitting just behind the pilot I felt a little anxious knowing I could reach over his shoulder and take the controls. Still, it was a non-eventful flight and we landed gently on the grass runway bordering the park. Finally! We had arrived!

The camp staff were warm and welcoming and seemed genuinely excited to see our group. We were led to our bungalows where warthogs and baboons greeted us on our path. The warthogs were so friendly that we almost bumped into them as we ventured around exploring what will be our home for the next 7 days.

The sounds and sights of the park are incredible. With an abundance of wildlife all around us, our senses are on overdrive trying to keep up. Tia instantly spotted an insect and snatched it up off the path! Yep, same old Tia still playing with the bugs! (I reminded her that some of the bugs here may not be as friendly as Idaho critters)

Dinner was delightful with various African and Portuguese dishes. We soon headed to bed, exhausted from our journey but ready for our first safari tomorrow!

A Day in Soweto - Johannesburg South Africa

Today we met up with the rest of the Zoo Boise group and headed out for a day in Soweto. Driving through Johannesburg was an eye-opening experience. In a city where 27% of the population is unemployed, there were many signs of poverty. On the other hand, Joberg (Johannesburg) is also home to some very rich people. As we made our way to Soweto it w1as tough to see such extreme wealth next to extreme poverty. In some cases directly next to it!

Soweto, a township of Joberg, was the site of many historical events including the Soweto uprising, a series of protests held by students in 1976. During the uprising many school children were brutally injured or killed by South African police because of political resistance to apartheid. While in Soweto we also visited the Apartied Museum, which was an incredibly moving experience. The tour started with a very real reflection of what it was like to live in a racially segregated society. Each visitor was randomly issued a "white" or "non-white" ticket and then ushered through the entrance that was suited for their race. This was just the start of what would be a very sobering look into apartheid in South Africa. It was the 1991 release of Nelson Mandela that started a negotiations for a more just society.

After the museum we headed to a local restaurant for a traditional South African lunch. It consisted of 3 different types of pap (a dish similar to grits), tripe (nope I didn't try it), potato salad, and a variety of other tasty traditional salads. Tia even had a few bites of the meal! The restaurant which is a favorite of locals, sits next to Damond Tutu's home so of course we had to venture next door for a peek!

Tutu was not the only notorious resident of Soweto. Nelson Mandela's former home was almost directly across the street. We toured this residence where he and his family lived for many years. It was in this home that he was shot at, fire-bombed or raided almost nightly. The bullet holes still scar the exterior smoke-singed bricks. Inside the home were remnants of a former wall installed to protect his family from bullets.

On the ride back to the hotel we saw their enormous soccer stadium and the former FIFA headquarters. Overall it was an amazing and educational day filled with visits to many historic sites. Tomorrow we finally travel to Gorongosa!!! (I may pee my pants a little!)

First stop - Dubai!

 As Rob dropped Tia and I off at the airport I was flooded with emotions. Once again I was leaving the family to journey to Africa. This time with BOTH of my sisters. I was so sad to be going away, but excited to once again return to Africa. And even more excited to be visiting a place Zoo Boise has worked so hard to restore and protect. This time it would be a little different. This time it was personal.


After a 14 hour flight we landed in Dubai. From the air it was certainly not what I had pictured. I flashed back to the many photos I had seen in magazines of beautiful beaches, stunning architecture, and unimaginable vehicles.  The city we were landing in was dust-covered, mundane and de-void of brilliance. I hoped it was just my small window that was distorting my view.


The airport was enormous, but earily quiet. From the time we exited the departure gate until we left customs we saw less than 50 people but walked over a mile and a half! Driving through the city was the same. The freeways were virtually empty. From our hotel window we had a beautiful view of the Burj Khalifa and fountains. Now this was more what I had pictured when I thought about Dubai. It was stunning. Still, looking down over the grounds below we saw virtually no one. Only one brave jogger running in the 111 degree heat. We soon discovered that the temperature, extreme humidity and the fact that Ramadan was in full swing was enough to keep people indoors on what was the beginning of their weekend.



(Mall gawkers watching an impromptu show)

By nightfall the city came alive! The Burj and fountain below lit up with brilliant light and water shows. Crowds by the hundreds gathered below to watch the beautiful sight. The world's largest mall was bustling with people, all eager to shop, ice skate, or gawk at the sights and sounds of Dubai. We splurged on a tour to the very top of the Burj - after all, it's not every day that you get a chance to visit the world's tallest skyscraper! The huge buildings below looked miniature from the top. It was truly a once in a lifetime experience!

(Burj Khalifa)



It was nearly 1am when we returned to the hotel, passing by a fleet of Lamborghini's as we strolled back. Dubai had proven to be an exciting and awe-inspiring destination... Now on to South Africa!