A walk on the wild side!

When we were offered a walking tour of the park I have to admit, I was a bit naive to the reality of the situation. I'm not sure what I expected. But I sure wasn't prepared for what I got.

Only five of us from the group would be walking. We met our guide, Fraser, at the camp and he quickly loaded us up into a safari vehicle. Wait... I assumed we were walking around camp, or at least very near to camp! Now we were going deep into the park for our tour!? I was thrilled and terrified all at the same time. After driving for about 20 minutes along the bumpy trail, Fraser stopped the truck and told us this is where we would be starting our journey. He proceeded to pull a shotgun out from behind the seat and slung it over his shoulder. By this point in our time at Gorongosa I was well-aware that there were plenty of dangerous animals in the park, but I was also well-aware that some of them wouldn't be phased by that gun. After going over some rules, including "No talking, just walking" and "Always stay behind Fraser" we set off into the forest. I realized at that moment that we were completely on our own in this vast place! Luckily we had a very experienced guide to lead the way. (And a shotgun, just in case)

We walked along the edge of a riverbed for over a mile. Only the sound of our footsteps and the calling of numerous birds broke the still of the morning. Experiencing this place in this way was awe-inspiring and serene. And soon I found myself smelling scents I had never imagined, seeing things I had never seen, and hearing sounds that only Africa could conceive. Suddenly Fraser held up his fist in what we recognized as the "stop" command. We halted to a stop and listened. The rumbling of nearby elephants made the chills run through my body. Fraser told us they were close, probably across the dry riverbed. We trekked forward.

We saw numerous birds and animals as we walked. Near the edge of the riverbed a monitor lizard scurried away at the sound of our steps. After stopping for a short break we came to an area of small trees with long bendable branches. Fraser explained that this was a poachers paradise. The flexible limbs were perfect for setting snares that would be camouflaged and very effective. It made the poaching crisis staggeringly palpable at that moment. It made my stomach hurt.

We followed Fraser for a couple of miles, stopping to learn about the local ecology at many places along the way. Soon Fraser mentioned we were heading to an area where Paola and the other lion researchers were camping out. He explained that this was a "hot spot" for lions in the park which is why the team was posted up there. He also mentioned that he had never explored this part of the park by foot before and we needed to stay keenly aware of our surroundings. We set off into the waist-deep grass. My heart pounded with each step.

We soon reached the lion camp and met up with the rest of the group. It was a relief to once again have the safety of a vehicle to rely on, but for a second I wished we could continue to explore the park by foot. Paula reminded us that the lions were always nearby and soon the vehicle became our shield once again!

Our visit to Gorongosa has been truly magical. The raw and untouched beauty of this place is something indescribable. It's sometimes hard to imagine that only a short time ago a brutal war raged throughout this serene landscape. The park is an incredibly forgiving place. And although the physical and emotional wounds are beginning to heal, some of the scars of termoil still remain.
On the fence surrounding our camp the holew from gunfire are still very apparent.

More safari's and sundowners followed over the next few days, and soon our stay in Gorongosa came to an end. It was difficult saying goodbye to the staff who had become our friends, but I know I will return to this incredible place again soon. Now, back to South Africa to explore Kruger National Park....